Applying mascara looks easy—swipe it on and go! But a few small mistakes can ruin your results, from the moment you open the tube to choosing the right formula. Think mascara flakes, smudging, running mascara, and raccoon eyes—the most common problems that make lashes look messy instead of defined.
In this guide, I’ll break down the most common mascara mistakes, why they happen, and exactly how to fix them for cleaner, longer-looking lashes.
How to Apply Mascara Correctly (Quick Step-by-Step)
Step 1: Apply your other eye makeup first—especially eyeshadow and eyeliner. If you use under-eye concealer, wait until mascara is dry so you don’t smear it.
Step 2: Place the wand at the base of your upper lashes. Wiggle it gently side-to-side to coat the roots first (this helps your lash line look fuller).
Step 3: Sweep the wand upward through the lashes to the tips in one smooth motion. To prevent clumping, use light pressure and avoid overloading the wand.
Curling your lashes before mascara can help lift straight lashes and open up the eyes. It takes an extra minute, but it can make a visible difference in lash lift and eye openness. Important: never curl after applying mascara—lashes can stick to the curler and break.
Mascara Tip: Getting mascara on your eyelids? Place a clean index card or tissue behind your lashes while you apply mascara. Make sure it’s clean to avoid eye irritation. Makeup artists often use this trick backstage to prevent smudging.
7 Mascara Mistakes to Avoid (And What to Do Instead)
Now that you know the basics, here are the most common mascara mistakes that stop you from getting smooth, lifted, long-looking lashes—and how to fix each one.
1. Do Not Pump your Mascara
Don’t pump the wand in and out of the tube. The goal behind pumping is to load more product onto the brush, but it actually forces air into the tube, which dries out mascara faster and leads to clumps and flakes. Instead, twist the wand inside the tube to pick up product. Wipe excess product off the wand before application (too much product = instant clumps).
2. Making Use of Old, Expired or Dried Mascara
Mascara is typically best used within about 3 months after opening (and up to ~6 months depending on the product and hygiene). If your mascara smells unusual, looks dry, or starts clumping, it’s time to replace it—even if there’s product left. Old mascara can collect bacteria and may irritate sensitive eyes, especially because it’s used so close to the lash line.
3. Ignoring Waterproof Mascara in Conditions When It’s Wet or Humid
If you’re heading to the beach, pool, gym, or expect rain/humidity, waterproof mascara can help reduce smudging and running. Just remember: waterproof formulas can be harder to remove, so use a gentle oil-based remover and avoid rubbing your lashes aggressively.
4. Applying Mascara on Bottom Lashes First
If you apply mascara to both upper and lower lashes, do your upper lashes first. Applying bottom lashes first can increase the chance of smudging under the eyes while you blink or look up. Once your top lashes are dry, lightly coat the bottom lashes with the tip of the wand for more control. Use the wand tip vertically on bottom lashes to prevent smudging.
5. Foregoing the “Wiggle” Application Technique
Quick note: simply swiping mascara upward isn’t always the best technique. For fuller-looking lashes, start at the base, wiggle the wand gently side-to-side, then comb through to the tips. This helps coat more lashes and reduces clumping. This also helps mascara reach shorter inner-corner lashes.
6. Applying too many Coats
Once mascara fully dries, it sets. Layering fresh mascara on top hours later often causes flaking and clumps. If you need a touch-up, gently remove the flaky bits first (cotton swab + micellar water), let lashes dry, then apply a thin new coat. Applying more than 2–3 coats often leads to clumps, flakes, and heavy-looking lashes.
7. Not Removing with a Gentle Cleanser
Because mascara is designed to last for hours, it can be challenging to remove at the end of the day—especially around the delicate eye area. Scrubbing too hard can irritate the skin and weaken lashes. Use a gentle remover and let it dissolve the mascara before wiping—don’t rub aggressively.
Quick Mascara Rules Checklist
Pro Mascara Application Rules (Quick Checklist)
- Replace mascara every 3 months
- Never pump the wand
- Apply from roots using the wiggle technique
- Limit to 2–3 coats
- Let mascara dry before touching lashes
- Remove gently at night
Final Words
Mascara looks best when your application is clean and controlled—avoid pumping, work in thin layers, and choose the right formula for your day (washable vs waterproof). For removal, use an oil-based cleanser or cleansing balm to melt mascara without harsh rubbing. Waterproof mascara is designed to resist water, so it may take a bit more time to dissolve—press the remover on lashes for 10–20 seconds before wiping gently.